climbsaba

……. and the first descent (actually the second… the first was when I got stung in the arse after repelling about 60m) into the mysterious valley begins…

To explore this valley (valley by the Sulfur Mine)… you need many ropes, much webbing, and an acceptance of the peculiar. Something about this valley makes you feel in a totally different world. Which is pretty impressive on the small island of Saba.

There are in fact, a good amount of spots to boulder, free climb and even top rope from in this valley. But gear is a must. We (Jeremy and I) were stopped from exploring all the way to the ocean, only because we left most of our gear at the start of the valley. Soooo…. we explored what we could, and decided to ascend up the left side to see what we could see….

The rawness of the North Coast mixed with the smoothness of an expansive, infinite ocean…. a sight not many get to indulge in. Yes, in terms of rock climbing the rock looks like shite… but beauty is beauty, even if you can’t climb it….

Hopefully I’ve embeded the video properly….

Finally got onto some more great rock and combined it with some nice snorkeling. About an hour hike in to find the spot with a new climbing partner, Jeremy.

Free Climbing with the intent to jump off creates a certain freedom… a feeling of safety almost. Indeed a false sense of security… since it involves climbing on uncertain rock with no safety gear, in an unknown area, and having to constantly check your position so you don’t hover over a rocky bottom.

Definitely a rush… but the downside is a wet chalk bag and wet climbing shoes. Plus the hour hike in and out does get a bit long, but it keeps the place secluded. I prefer when a place doesn’t have easy access… makes you work for it more while keeping a certain element out.

We will most certainly be back to this site. A few routes to conquer….

Untitled from Jeremy Durling on Vimeo.

and so it begins….

Found an awesome climbing partner and decided to take the gear to the tail…

I had forgotten how incredible great rock feels under your fingertips…. it has been way too long since feeling the hard earth against my skin, the sun on my back and the wind gently cooling me.

Moving from grip to grip… the sensation of previously unused muscles tensing and relaxing… becoming fully aware once again of the shift of balance and gravity.

The connectedness one feels while climbing is in part due to the intricate dance between the flexing of a muscle and the shift in balance…. the rock suddenly becomes a part of you… an extra limb.

Leaving the ground for the first time and placing yourself onto the face creates a forced oneness. A oneness that is necessary and constant… for if the oneness leaves, the separation occurs.

Studying the intricacies of the face compares with the view that is seen when you turn around and look down over 1000 feet. I’m not sure which is more breathtaking…. being able to stare off into the distance of a finite Caribbean Sea, or gazing at the details of earth which is hundreds of thousands of years in the making… whose purpose has become beauty and excitement…

In conclusion… the rock is nice… possible single pitches for top roping…some good shade in the afternoon… about 20 minutes hike to get to… and multiple faces, each with multiple routes, for all skill levels… A true playground for those who appreciate a simplistic complexity…..

Finally… after multiple wasp stings in the arse… came across some good rock. Rock that doesn’t crumble with a slight breeze. This is the video… have to clear away some stuff… but not too bad for an Intermediate Route (5.6-5.8).
I then came across the rock in the video below…. even better!! With some serious cracks and maybe even a route with a slight negative overhang!! Easy to climb the back side to the top (which will work out great if we can drill an anchor in place). Could set up a nice top rope/ sport combo….

I am on a search today for the elusive Cave of Chickens…

According to local lore, the cave on Paris Hill was thought to be bottomless… and so there were a few Sabans who decided to drop some cute chickens down the cave. Scientific research purposes only of course…. but I’m sure there was some rum involved. A little while later, there were some chickens out at sea… and so, the theory of the cave having an outlet came to be.

Now whether that’s true or not (about the chickens), I am intrigued at an unexplored cave in the Caribbean! Sure I’ve done my share of spelunking in mid-west caves in the middle of a corn field…. but this seems a bit more exciting.

More to come on the findings on it’s location, accessibility and pics…..